![]() ![]() “So it wouldn’t be right for me to start messing around with ramen before I have two, three, four years of making traditional ramen under my belt.” But upstairs, he practices what he calls “freestyle izakaya.” “It’s kind of like jazz. “I’m still learning how to do ramen,” he says. Upstairs is the izakaya, or Japanese-style pub, where small plates are on the menu and whim and fancy are in the air. Fukushima makes the ramen traditionally: completely by the book. Downstairs is a Sapporo-style ramen bar, where the noodles are imported special for the restaurant from Japan. His new restaurant, Daikaya Izakaya, is really two restaurants in one. “I let pretty much everything influence me,” Fukushima says. He learned to cook under Andrés, opening the chef’s Washington restaurants and working behind the groundbreaking minibar within Café Atlántico, which served dishes like a spherical olive that popped and melted liquid into your mouth. Being an Army brat, he also lived in Germany and around the U.S. area.”įukushima was born in Okinawa, Japan, where his mother is from, and lived in Hawaii, where his father is from. I kind of feel like this is what José was dealing with when he was bringing tapas to the D.C. And all over New York City, Jason Wang, a Chinese-American, is finding a young, adventurous audience for his father’s recipes of spicy & tingly beef and of liang pi cold skin noodles, having opened seven locations of Xi’an Famous Foods since 2005.Īnd in Nyack, Tyrone Azanedo, the son of the Maura of Maura’s Kitchen, is booking the restaurant full of folks in love with the bold, exciting flavors of Peru, like a fresh fish stew with an aji amarillo or crispy fish bites with a spicy pepper dipping sauce and a honey drizzle.įukushima says Daikaya Izakaya is “a fun place to be right now. At Daikaya Izakaya in Washington, D.C., Katsuya Fukushima, a Japanese-American protégé of the pioneering Spanish chef José Andrés, cooks traditional ramen but also goes avant-garde with a Japanese pub-food menu. ![]() But today, savvy diners can find menus as varied as the American population.Īt Talde in Brooklyn’s Park Slope neighborhood, chef-partner Dale Talde, a Top Chef-testant of Filipino background, serves a trendy kale salad alongside Hawaiian bread buns with Filipino pork sausage. “It used to be just French, and sometimes German and a little Italian.”Ī few pioneers led the way, notably Korean-American David Chang of Momofuku fame, who combined Korean dishes, American ingredients and French training with his love for Japanese cuisine. “We’re seeing influences from a variety of different countries in higher-end restaurants,” says Bret Thorn, the senior food editor of Nation’s Restaurant News, a trade publication. Just as the Italian-Americans of a generation ago broke new ground serving spaghetti and meatballs at red-checked tables with Chianti-bottle candles, these coming-of-age chefs are rethinking menus, décor and even marketing-and turning the tables on a Euro-centric culinary scene. Its story is indicative of a trend that’s happening all over the Northeast: Chefs who are second-generation immigrants are taking their culinary heritage, mixing it with an American sensibility, and forging a new style of cuisine. In just a few short months, the restaurant went from a place where Latin American immigrants could find a satisfying lunch and a taste of home to a date-night destination for hipster foodies ready for a culinary adventure. ![]() Today, it’s a celebrated tapas lounge with frothy pisco sours and flickering candles. Maura’s Kitchen, a Peruvian restaurant in Nyack, N.Y., started out serving a humble menu of rice and beans from a steam table. ![]()
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